Day 32

Elslack to Malham (10 miles) via Gargrave Station where we met Janet who is joining us for 3 days.
We had a problem in Malham where the Lister Arms didn't recognise our booking in spite of Andrew having it in writing and having confirmed it earlier in the week. Andrew ended up in the Youth Hostel and Janet and I went to a b&b 3 miles down the road.
We ended up with a great night in the Lister Arms, though, with 2 couples who insisted on buying us a bottle of wine in addition to the copious amount we had already consumed!
Now - to change subjects - for the long awaited report on feet. Surprisingly, neither Andrew or I have yet had a blister (what a feat!!!) but this could change, of course, at any time. Andrew has put on a precautionary Compeed two or three times and I've used one once. The backs of my heels are permanently tender, and slightly sore at times, and therefore something I keep an eye on. As far as I can tell the single most important thing to prevent blisters is to wear two pairs of socks - thick outer ones and thin liner socks. This alleviates the effect of friction. It's important to keep the liner socks clean and dry When I bought my new boots I bought them with full length Sorbothane shock-assorbing inserts. This has certainly help me. And the boots are a very snug fit so the feet don't move around in them. Finally, when we walk, we rest for 5 or 10 minutes every hour to take the weight off the feet, albeit briefly.

Day 31

We are at the Tempest Arms, in Elslack, having walked 19 miles today. Great facilities, including an internet connected pc allowing me to "talk" to my pc at home. In fact, this hotel is so good I'm think of staying here for the next 5 weeks while Andrew walks on to John O'Groats.

We've been very lucky with the weather on our walk. The last time we saw rain was 8 days ago in Staffordshire. There are lots of reservoirs on the Pennines and it's noticeable how few of them are full up. The one-eyed gamekeeper we met yesterday told us that part of his job is to light controlled burns of the heather and gorse. In a normal winter he reckons to have 4 burns; this winter he has had 38 burns. For us, of course, the dry weather has not only meant more comfortable walking, it has also meant it's been dry and firm underfoot.

I've learnt a word of the local language. It's "Owdoo" which I think translates to "Hello old chap. What a nice day it is. I hope you are well". They are very economical with their words in Yorkshire.

Steve phoned today. I said I would mention this.

Day 30

We are staying at the Pack Horse Inn in the middle of nowhere, North of Hebden Bridge. No mobile phone signal, but the barman said I could get a signal by standing on the stile outside the pub. I didn't believe it, but it's true and I am now standing on the stile dictating this to Janet (my wife).

Quite a hard day today, over 21 miles and 9 hours on the road

Met and chatted to a one-eyed gamekeeper, a young couple who invited us into their garden for a glass of squash and a young French girl for the third day in a row. (Huh, so that's what they're doing on this walk, following young French girls. J.) My son Richard phoned today and straightaway my hat blew off into a water-logged ditch - thankfully it landed the right way up (which is the right way up for a hat to land in a ditch?) and floated. It was still nice to get the phone call, though. Chris and Andrew had phoned earlier in the week.

I'm cold standing on this stile and need to go back inside the warm pub.

Day 29

From Torside (on the Pennine Way) to somewhere which might be in Yorkshire - Diggle - on it might not be (see below) - but it is on, on at least very close to, the Pennine Way.
We walked for an hour with two unemployed builders from Yorkshire trying to pretend we weren't southern softies. They seemed to think everywhere on or near the Pennine Way is in Yorkshire. I mentioned Derbyshire once but I think I got away with it.
We walked just under 15 miles today, some on easy ground, some on rough ground, making a total of 448 mies since leaving Lands End.

Day 28

The first day of the Pennine Way - Edale to Torside - 16 miles. The weather started off sunny but clouded over by the time we reached Bleaklow early in the afternoon.
In the morning visibility was clear enough for us to see Manchester in the distance. Opinion might be divided as to whether or not this is a good thing so I'll refrain from further comment.

Day 27

We are in Edale and, as I was able to predict yesterday, there is no mobile 'phone signal here but our hosts at Mam Tor (our b&b tonight) have very kindly allowed me to use their pc.

Today was, in fact the first time we have had any problems getting accomodation. We thought we were booked into the Ramblers Arms but they had no record of our booking. Fortunately, the local visitor information centre was able to help us.

And we had arrived early because today was a gentle 11 mile walk from the Waterlooo Inn in warm sunshine. Tomorrow is, of course, the start of the Pennine War section of our End to End walk and will be much harder. But the weather forecast is good again.

Thank you Robert Dorin and Tony Evans for 'phoning me this morning from a tea shop in Maidenhead while claiming to be doing a long distance bike ride as training for Robert's 1300 mile bike ride to Italy in a few weeks time. It was good to hear from you.

Day 26

After a rest day yesterday in Ashbourne it felt good to be on the road again today. We covered just under 19 miles to the Waterloo Inn in Taddington 5 miles east of Buxton. A perfect day's walk much of it along the Tissington Trail, a disused railway now a cycle/foot path, in fine sunny weather, not too hot.
We're in Derbyshire - drystone walls from horizon to horizon.
What can I complain about today? Well, nothing really I'm afraid. I will have to think about something to complain about tomorrow.
Perhaps it will be about Vodafone's lack of mobile 'phone coverage in this part of the world! In which case you won't hear from me ......unless I shout extremely loudly.