A POSTCRIPT

After finishing on Friday we relaxed on Friday evening. (This is code - meaning we consumed a certain amount of champagne, wine and malt whisky).

As we were finishing breakfast at the hotel on Saturday morning, Walter Baker arrived and Janet and I went with him to see him finish and take some photographs while Andrew and Kate had to go to catch their ferry to the Orkneys. Walter's 79 years old but with mental and physical energy greater than people half his age.

We gave Walter a lift to Inverness and made our way to the airport for the flight home.

People have been asking me what were the best and worst bits? The worst bits were walking beside busy roads such as the A9, or the five miles we walked beside the A38 into Gloucester; the best bits were getting away from roads, and civilisation in general, on paths such as the Pennine Way and the West Highland Way. Other good memories will be of the people we met.

Our preparation, together with a certain amount of luck, ensured we did the journey without too many problems and few injuries other than the blister that was annoying me for the final week. My boots would not have survived much further, though. When I arrived home I realised that I have less than 1mm of tread on the heel of my left boot!

It's still a strange feeling to have finished this walk. It's been the main focus of my life for the last 12 months, and slightly longer for Andrew.

So what's next? Who knows? Hopefully there will be other challenges...........

Finally, and not least, we've both had great support from our wives and families. Our thanks go to them, all the people who have donated to our charity, the Prince's Trust, and all who have followed our progress on this blog.

Day 66 - WE'VE ARRIVED!!!

After 60 days of walking (plus 6 rest days) and 1044 miles we finally reached John O'Groats at about 3.30 this afternoon. Janet and Kate provided champagne allowing us to celebrate in style. (And I understand there's another bottle for later.)
The weather today has been kind - in fact some of the best weather of the journey.
How do I feel now it's all over? I don't know yet.

Day 65 - ONLY ONE DAY TO GO!

We've walked 21 miles today. After 3 miles we were able to say goodbye to the A9 and join its bastard offspring, the A99. After 4 more miles we left the A99 and headed north on a single track road for 12.5 miles of quiet walking to Wotten.
We have been seeing quite a lot of cyclists on the A9/A99 in the last few days and Andrew has taken to giving them a cheery wave and wishing them good luck. It totally confused the local postman.
Andrew's wife, Kate, flew up today to join Andrew, Janet and me for tomorrow's celebration when we reach John O'Groats.
Met Walter again this morning. We probably won't see him tomorrow but hope to be there when he finishes on Saturday morning.

Day 64

I found out yesterday evening that Andrew had slipped and fallen while crossing the river I had mentioned in yesterday's blog - thereby vindicating my decision to cross the river via the railway bridge. (Please forgive my trespass, Network Rail but at least I stayed dry). Met Walter Baker again this morning. He has problems with his boots wearing out but is otherwise OK.
Today's walk fom Helmsdale to Dunbeath was all alongside the A9 - not very interesting - but we've now passed the 1000 mile mark.
The blister on my right little toe has had a day off ie. didn't reform today for the first time in 6 days. It's still tender, though.
Now Janet's here I've had to stop going to bed with Loreena McKennit but I still listen to her, and other music, on my MP3 player when I get bored with walking which, surprisingly, isn't that often,

Day 63

An easy coastal path from Golspie to Brora meant we could avoid the A9 for 7 miles and get to Brora at midday for an early lunch at a hotel. A young lad working at the hotel suggested we walk along the sea shore from Brora to Helmsdale. Only 3 hours he said. (We were soon to find out that's 3 hours for a 17 year old not two old codgers). What about the fact the tide was coming in? No problem, he said. The first mile or two were quite easy but we found ourselves on a steadily shrinking beach and were soon walking on shingle and scrambling over rocks. Andrew began to pull ahead and, because he doesn't looks behind, I suspected it might be some time before I would see him again. And I was right because by the time I came across a river too deep to walk across Andrew was well ahead. I didn't want to take my boots off to wade across the river because it would take me 10 minutes to redress the blister on my little toe so I climbed up an embankment to cross the river on the railway line. (I had seen a train on the railway a few minutes before so knew there wouldn't be another one for a week or so). After that I decided to admit defeat and rejoin the A9 for the final 6 miles, eventually arriving in Helmsdale half an hour before Andrew.
Janet has flown up to join us for the last 3 days.

Day 62

Tain to Golspie - 18 miles. The trick from now on is to avoid the A9 as much as possible. We had two sessions today where we couldn't get away from walking next to the A9 for several miles but inbetween we had a very pleasent walk on quiet roads to Dornoch and then alongside Loch Fleet.

The weather today has been overcast and drizzling while we understand that in the rest of the UK it's been fine and hot. That's the north of Scotland for you.

At breakfast at the B&B in Tain we met two end to end cyclists. They were heading south having completed the first day of their ride yesterday. This afternoon, as Andrew and I arrived at the B&B in Golspie we met a cyclist heading north. Presumably tomorrow will be his last day. The cyclists have it easy. They can sit down all day.

Day 61

Today, by an extraordinary coincidence, we met two other end to end walkers at the same time on a stretch of road between Allness and Tain.
One, dressed as pikeman (as if this end to end walk isn't hard enough!) and calling himself The Charity Pikeman, has set off from John O'Groats this week. The other, Walter Baker, has walked from Lands End like us. He's English but lives in Canada and is 79 years old!
As far as I can tell somewhere between 50 and 100 people do this walk each year. There is no set route but most people end up going along the east coast of Scotland between John O'Groats and Inverness.
Andrew and I are now in Tain and my room in the b&b has a superb view over Dornoch Firth to the North Sea beyond.

Day 60

A short day today, just 14 miles, saw us arriving at the Novar Arms, where we are stayng in Evanton, at 3.00 pm. and in time to catch up on a few emails and reports. Evanton is on the northern side of the Cromerty Firth - which is one of the dents on Scotland's east coast.
I popped down the road to buy a few essential supplies - fruit, flapjack and cereal bars - but was unable to buy the chocolate cereal bar I had chosen because it wasn't on the store's computer. Sheer lunacy!
Some problems still from the blister on my right little toe but only 107 miles, and 6 days, to go now.

Day 59

7 miles of the Great Glen Way before we cut north, then 13 miles to Muir of Ord. A couple of showers in the morning but a fine afternoon.
I have another blister - still only the second of the journey. This one is under the little toe on my right foot and is a bit more painful than my first blister but not a big problem I hope.
I've mentioned how awful Breakfast TV is on a previous blog. I only switch it on for the local weather forecast. It's possibly my imagination but I'm sure today someone said somthing like 'Coming up on Breakfast TV.....why poking your pet with a sharp stick can make it more aggressive'. Fascinating.

Day 58

The townsfolk of Drumnadrochit have done a very clever thing. They've managed to isolate the more garish parts of the local tourism industry to the northern end of town, separated from the normal side of life by a big river. Thus on one side of our hotel we have the Loch Ness Monster Visitor Centre and the Loch Ness Monster Exhibition. On the other side we have the Loch Ness Visitor Centre (complete with images of something that looks like a pidgeon without wings) and beneath the hotel in the Nessie Shop. No - I'm not making this up.
Last night's b&b (Riverbank Lodge) was so tranquil......and set on a road where the next town is 52 miles to the north west.
We have now done very nealy 900 miles with just over 140 to go.
Thank you, Alison, from the Prince's Trust for your continuing support and for phoning today.

Day 57

A straightforward day following the Great Glen Way from South Laggan to Invermoriston - 18 miles. The Great Glen Way is very pleasent walking even with the occasional rain showers of the past two days.
For the past two or three weeks I've been getting increasingly hungry. I think it's because I've now burnt off any excess weight I might of had and my body is demanding more calories. So
I'm now having to supplement my diet with cereal bars, biscuits and chocolate bars. It's a hard life.
Met another walker sevearl times doing the Great Glen Way - Andrew a physician specialising in kidney desease - and he joined us for dinner.

Day 56

Beware the dangers of complacency! In the course of this walk we haven't until now made any significant navigational errors. There have been three or four times that we've made errors which resulted in walking an extra half mile or so but that's all. We made up for it today. We left Fort William without looking at the map and went North East up the A82 instead of North West up the A830. By the time we realised our error we had walked 1.5 miles. So today's walk turned into 25 miles instead of the planned 22! But it was a nice walk along the Caledonion Canal and then on the north side to Loch Lochy to Laggan with occasional views of the snow covered summits of the Ben Nevis range. Yesterday was a rest day in Fort William (our last rest day) which, for me, was a chance to catch up on work. From now on it's heads down (apart from looking at maps occasionally!) until we get to John O'Groats.

Day 54

After the rain of the last 2 days we had good weather today and were treated to fine views of Ben Nevis as we approached the end of today's walk - Fort William.
The West Highland Way has proved to be quite enjoyable even though it appears to have had a few more hills added to it since we last walked it 4 years ago.
Last night we met John and Doug again as well as WHW walkers Kevin and John who we have now seen every day for the last 4 days. Amazingly Kevin appears to have the same taste in music as me - best described as an eclectic mix but with an orientation to folk and folk rock that takes in bands like Pink Floyd on the way. No doubt we will be meeting them for a beer later this evening.
Tomorrow is a rest day which, for me, means finding a computer with internet access and working most of the day

Day 53

Rannock Moor! - 10 miles of emptiness beween the Inveroran Hotel and Kingshouse which is at entrance to Glencoe. With dark, low clouds and some light rain the weather provided a suitable backdrop to the remote and desolate landscape. We made it to Kingshouse for lunch before setting off into Glencoe and then the 1000 foot climb up the Devil's Staircase into the Leven Valley.
Half way up the Devils Staircase it began to rain in earnest and didn't leave off until we were about 50 feet from our b&b in Kinlochleven.
I forgot to mention I developed a small blister on the side of my big toe two days ago on the northern shores of Loch Lomond and that caused my toe to be a little sore occassionally today. But I found a cure - a 5 minute break and a chocolate bar. My only blister of the journey so far.

Day 52

After 4 days of sunshine, we have returned to cloudy weather with occasional light rain and gusty winds. Still on the West Highland Way, we are now at a small hotel in the middle of nowhere about two miles north of Bridge of Orchy on the edge of Rannoch Moor and surrounded by mountains which are all shrouded in cloud. If it sounds bleak let me tell you it is.

Just under 16 miles today; 19 miles planned for tomorrow.

My son, Chris, is due to join us this evening for the weekend.

Last night we met another end to end walker - Mark. He's walking north to south and planning a 1600 mile trip to be done in three stages over the next eighteen months to two years. We always knew that if we were to meet any other end to enders it was most likely on the West Highland Way because it's much easier this way than going through the Cairngorm Mountains. He seemed sane but you never know.

Bt the way, John, I do read the comments on this blog but only about every 5 to 7 days. That's because it's quite hard to navigate the internet using my Nokia phone so I usually only get to read the comments when I have access to a desktop pc (like today) so keep them coming!

Day 51

Quite a hard day. Nearly 21 miles from the Rowardennam Hotel to Crianlarich on the West Highland Way, nearly all off road, of course, but including 5 or 6 very difficult and slow miles alongside the northern part of Loch Lomond.
Had problems accessing email and the internet with my mobile phone but Vodafone eventually were able to sort it out after 45 minutes or so. That's why I've only just done yesterday's blog.
We are now me than three quarters of the way through. The mileage to date now stands at 793. Tomorrow should be an easy 16.
Tonight's b&b, Glenardran House, is very nice - especially after a tough day.

Day 50

A significant day! Shortly after leaving Drymen we met two madmen. That is to say.....we met two other madmen, John and Doug, also walking from Lands End to John O'Groats. It was fun to compare notes. They had set off after us and taken a different route, avoiding the Pennine Way.
In one of life's coincidences it turns out that John and Andrew have mutual friends who live in the Orkneys. And John used to work for Xerox in Marlow with someone I know.
John and Doug were booked into the Rowardennan Hotel like us and we had an enjoyables evening later enhanced when Doug produced a guitar and started singing folk songs. We hope to meet up with them again in Kinlochlevan on Saturday and also Fort William on Sunday.

Day 49

Kirkintilloch to Drymen, 18 miles, of which 10 was on a disused railway and the last 7 were on the West Highland Way.
Good weather again but not as warm as forecast.
We are staying at the same b&b in Drymen as we stayed at when we walked the West Highland Way 4 years ago but it's gone sadly down market.

Day 48

Fine weather all day which was very welcome after the rain of the last 3 days. Initially, we were on the Union Canal then at the Falkirk Wheel (impressive) we switched to the Forth and Clyde Canal to take us to Kirktintilloch.
I think we are beginning to aclimatise to Scotland. Things are different here - the way they speak, the money, the vegetables (neeps and tatties, for example) and farm animals such as the haggis.

Day 47

A one mile walk back to the canal, then we followed the Union Canal west to Falkirk for 18 miles.
After a fine morning (one brief shower) we had several prolonged showers in the afternoon. So, once again, we arrived at our accomodation wet.
Steve has now returned home. Another day of canal walking tomorrow.

Day 46

The weather forecast looked good but what we got instead was persistent rain which began about an hour into the walk as we were crossing the Pentland Hills on a track and lasted until about half an hour after we arrived at our b&b in Broxburn. As a result we walked 18 miles with only 2 stops and arrived at the b&b cold and tired.
The total number of miles walked since Lands End now stands at 704.
The last few miles of today's walk were along the Union Canal. We survived a collision with a cyclist who suddenly appeared around a corner under a bridge. He first hit my shoulder, bounced off into Andrew, ran over Steve's foot and ended up sprawled on the towpath. Fortunately nobody was hurt. He claimed brake failure because of the rain and we speculated that if it hadn't been for us he might have ridden straight into the canal.

Day 45 - TWO THIRDS DONE

Yes - we have now completed two thirds of the 1036 mile journey from one end of the UK to the other.
Today was an easy 12 mile journey on an old drove road from Peebles to West Linton (about 15 miles south of Edinburgh). Some heavy showers and strong winds to contend with, however.
Steve has arrived to walk with us for the weekend.

Day 44A

A folk evening at a local pub. Eight musicians, sometimes one or two more, sat round a table. No introductions, no explanations, simply playing music they liked. Timeless. Priceless. Magic.

Day 44

A rest day in Peebles and a chance to catch up on washing (clothes, that is), a haircut and about two and a half hours logged into my computer at home curtesey of Peebles public library. I'd been looking forward to getting to Peebles but disappointed to find it a bit run down. The last large Scottish town we stayed at aslo had that run down feeling. The people around here seem friendly though. (Note that I don't intend to be too unkind or rude about the Scots on this blog. Too many of them know where I live.)

Day 43

We set off from Ettrickbridge in fine weather but had persistent light rain after a couple of hours which lasted the rest of the day.
From Ettrickbridge we headed over the hills to the Gordon Arms Hotel and found once again that the tracks shown with confidence on the OS map probably haven't actually existed for the last 50 years or more. This made it very hard going so after reaching the Gordon Arms Hotel (closed) we elected to do the remaining two thirds of the journey on roads which was about 2 miles longer but much quicker.
In total, we've walked over 20 miles today - the third time in the last 4 days that we've walked that far.
Tomorrow is a rest day (the 5th of the journey) in Peebles.

Day 42

Six weeks into it and still going strong. Fourteen miles today, mainly on hill tracks, some rain. We did lose the track at one point for about half a mile and had to blunder around in a boggy marsh. Not our fault - we have gps, a map and compass - the track shown on the OS map simply does not exist.
Now at an inn - in a place in the middle of nowhere but there is a bridge and the River Ettrick so they named it Ettrickbrige.
No phone signal, no internet at the inn, but by standing at the window I've found an unsecured wireless network!

Day 41

Today is the first time we've set off in the rain. We had wet weather gear on all the way to Hawick although it did stop raining for about an hour at one stage. We set off from Newcastleton on a little used path along a disused railway. For some reason the sight of Andrew and me hunched and with our hoods up and looking like Artic explorers spooked all the cattle and sheep. We provoked, unintentionally, a full blown stampede of young cows at one point.
We were provided with an excellent packed lunch by the landlord of last night's b&b (Woodside) which kept our spirits up over the 22 miles we covered today. The total covered now stands at 628 . Best mobile phone signal for 5 days. Last night's blog was done using Newcastleton's only WIFI network.

Day 40

We've reached Scotland! We arrived at the border just before 4.00. With minimal formalties we were able to cross without undue delay. Shortly after a farmer said hello and I uderstood him! Let's see what happens as we go further into Scotland. We're staying in Newcastleton and have now walked 616 miles since leaving Lands End . Last night at the Samson Inn in Gilsland I met, by chance, Colin Redman one of my Oxford business associates. Colin was with a group from Stratford Upon Avon exploring Hadrians Wall walks over the weekend. The group made a very generous donation to my Prince's Trust collecting tin - which was great. Tomorrow is another 20 mile day..

Day 39

I've walked all around Gisland trying to get a mobile phone signal. It turns out the only place where I can is up on Hadrians Wall about a quarter of a mile south of our b&b. Those Romans definately knew a thing or two..... So here I am sitting on a piece of history doing my blog A relatively easy 16 mile day today mostly along the South Tyne Trail from Alston. Pleasent weather although not particularly warm - which is good for walking. Found a great tea room in Greenhead. Tea rooms seem to be extremely rare on this trip so today's was to be savoured. After 12 days we have finally left the Pennines behind and tomorrow we reach Scotland.

Day 38

Bank Holiday greetings to fellow WAGS (Wargrave Adventurers Group) enjoying a sunny weekend on the Isle of Wight.
Today has been a testing day for Andrew and me: a 2300 ft climb from Dufton up to Cross Fell to start the day, very strong winds at the top followed by 3 hours of heavy rain on the descent. We made it, though, and are now in Alston'having comleted over 20 miles today and 580 miles since Lands End.
Both of us felt the climb up to Cross Fell - which at just under 3000 ft is the highest point on our journey - was easier than we had anticipated. Perhaps we are getting fitter!
Occassional gaps in the clouds at the top gave us tantalising views of the Lake District to the West.
Everything feels damp now but such problems soon disappear after a hot shower, a cup of tea and then a beer or two.

Day 37

i can only find one place in my room here at the b&b in Dufton (just north of Appleby) where I can access the internet with my phone so here goes....
We took the easy route (minor roads rather than footpaths) from Kirkby Stephen, a mere 14 miles, in anticipation of a tough 21 mile day tomorrow over Cross Fell (893m).
We've met up with our old friend the Pennine Way again here in Dufton after a 3 day break.
Our landlord is a fell runner and a useful marathon runner.

Day 36

A rest day in Kirkby Stephen.

So what happens on a rest day? Catching up on reading and on washing clothes. Detailed route planning for the next week. Logging in to my home pc (curtesey of Fletcher House, our b&b, with an internet connected computer for guests) to file and generally manage my email.

Evening meal in the local chinese (Nos. 48 and 65 - velly good) then to the Kirkby Stephen Sports and Social Club (where we signed in as members of the St. Lawrence Social Club in Truro because that we had wandered in there for a drink on our way to our b&b about 4 weeks ago) to watch the Manchester United versus Arsenal game.

Then to bed. We've a few hard days coming up and today was a nice respite in preparation.

Day 35

Hawes to Kirkby Stephen, 18 miles. A lovely walk, great scenery, but it rained nearly all day. Although not heavy, this is the worst rain we've had so far on our journey. We've been lucky up until now.
Today was also the first time since Lands End that I've managed to lose Andrew. He went ahead of Janet and me a few miles south of Kirkby Stephen which would not have been a problem were it not for the fact that we were due to turn off the road to cut across fields to Kirkby Stephen railway station (which is about 1.5 miles SW of Kirkby Stephen) where Janet was due to catch a train to Bradford before driving home tomorrow. Andrew did, however, manage to find his way to the station albeit by a slightly longer route.
We have now walked 545 miles since Lands End. Tomorrow is a rest day - our 4th of the trip.
Having been on the Pennine Way for 7 days of continuous walking we left it this morning at Hawes because at this point the Pennine Way veers off to the east. We will rejoin it, briefly, at Dufton.

Day 34

A really very poor mobile 'phone signal here as I stand in the dark and cold in the middle of the road on the edge of Hawes. You can probably get a better signal from Vodafone in many parts of Africa than you can in the Pennines.(Sorry Richard!) I got a connection to Chris for just long enough to hear that Reading are winning against Norwich but now I'm cold. I'll add more to this blog tomorrow.

Day 33 - HALF WAY!!!!!

We've reached Horton and are exactly half way through our journey!
Today was 15 miles from Malham, mostly in nice sunshine. Before reaching Horton the Pennine Way climbs Pen-y-ghent (one of Yorkshire's 3 peaks). It's hard work, but well worth it when the weather is good.
On Pen-y-ghent we met a lady eith two dogs. One was in her back-pack because it only had 3 legs. The absence of one front leg was not a problem going up, apparently, but was a problem going down. To add to this somewhat bizarre scenario, the other dog was wearing sunglasses (!) because it had trouble with wind (don't we all?).

Day 32

Elslack to Malham (10 miles) via Gargrave Station where we met Janet who is joining us for 3 days.
We had a problem in Malham where the Lister Arms didn't recognise our booking in spite of Andrew having it in writing and having confirmed it earlier in the week. Andrew ended up in the Youth Hostel and Janet and I went to a b&b 3 miles down the road.
We ended up with a great night in the Lister Arms, though, with 2 couples who insisted on buying us a bottle of wine in addition to the copious amount we had already consumed!
Now - to change subjects - for the long awaited report on feet. Surprisingly, neither Andrew or I have yet had a blister (what a feat!!!) but this could change, of course, at any time. Andrew has put on a precautionary Compeed two or three times and I've used one once. The backs of my heels are permanently tender, and slightly sore at times, and therefore something I keep an eye on. As far as I can tell the single most important thing to prevent blisters is to wear two pairs of socks - thick outer ones and thin liner socks. This alleviates the effect of friction. It's important to keep the liner socks clean and dry When I bought my new boots I bought them with full length Sorbothane shock-assorbing inserts. This has certainly help me. And the boots are a very snug fit so the feet don't move around in them. Finally, when we walk, we rest for 5 or 10 minutes every hour to take the weight off the feet, albeit briefly.

Day 31

We are at the Tempest Arms, in Elslack, having walked 19 miles today. Great facilities, including an internet connected pc allowing me to "talk" to my pc at home. In fact, this hotel is so good I'm think of staying here for the next 5 weeks while Andrew walks on to John O'Groats.

We've been very lucky with the weather on our walk. The last time we saw rain was 8 days ago in Staffordshire. There are lots of reservoirs on the Pennines and it's noticeable how few of them are full up. The one-eyed gamekeeper we met yesterday told us that part of his job is to light controlled burns of the heather and gorse. In a normal winter he reckons to have 4 burns; this winter he has had 38 burns. For us, of course, the dry weather has not only meant more comfortable walking, it has also meant it's been dry and firm underfoot.

I've learnt a word of the local language. It's "Owdoo" which I think translates to "Hello old chap. What a nice day it is. I hope you are well". They are very economical with their words in Yorkshire.

Steve phoned today. I said I would mention this.

Day 30

We are staying at the Pack Horse Inn in the middle of nowhere, North of Hebden Bridge. No mobile phone signal, but the barman said I could get a signal by standing on the stile outside the pub. I didn't believe it, but it's true and I am now standing on the stile dictating this to Janet (my wife).

Quite a hard day today, over 21 miles and 9 hours on the road

Met and chatted to a one-eyed gamekeeper, a young couple who invited us into their garden for a glass of squash and a young French girl for the third day in a row. (Huh, so that's what they're doing on this walk, following young French girls. J.) My son Richard phoned today and straightaway my hat blew off into a water-logged ditch - thankfully it landed the right way up (which is the right way up for a hat to land in a ditch?) and floated. It was still nice to get the phone call, though. Chris and Andrew had phoned earlier in the week.

I'm cold standing on this stile and need to go back inside the warm pub.

Day 29

From Torside (on the Pennine Way) to somewhere which might be in Yorkshire - Diggle - on it might not be (see below) - but it is on, on at least very close to, the Pennine Way.
We walked for an hour with two unemployed builders from Yorkshire trying to pretend we weren't southern softies. They seemed to think everywhere on or near the Pennine Way is in Yorkshire. I mentioned Derbyshire once but I think I got away with it.
We walked just under 15 miles today, some on easy ground, some on rough ground, making a total of 448 mies since leaving Lands End.

Day 28

The first day of the Pennine Way - Edale to Torside - 16 miles. The weather started off sunny but clouded over by the time we reached Bleaklow early in the afternoon.
In the morning visibility was clear enough for us to see Manchester in the distance. Opinion might be divided as to whether or not this is a good thing so I'll refrain from further comment.

Day 27

We are in Edale and, as I was able to predict yesterday, there is no mobile 'phone signal here but our hosts at Mam Tor (our b&b tonight) have very kindly allowed me to use their pc.

Today was, in fact the first time we have had any problems getting accomodation. We thought we were booked into the Ramblers Arms but they had no record of our booking. Fortunately, the local visitor information centre was able to help us.

And we had arrived early because today was a gentle 11 mile walk from the Waterlooo Inn in warm sunshine. Tomorrow is, of course, the start of the Pennine War section of our End to End walk and will be much harder. But the weather forecast is good again.

Thank you Robert Dorin and Tony Evans for 'phoning me this morning from a tea shop in Maidenhead while claiming to be doing a long distance bike ride as training for Robert's 1300 mile bike ride to Italy in a few weeks time. It was good to hear from you.

Day 26

After a rest day yesterday in Ashbourne it felt good to be on the road again today. We covered just under 19 miles to the Waterloo Inn in Taddington 5 miles east of Buxton. A perfect day's walk much of it along the Tissington Trail, a disused railway now a cycle/foot path, in fine sunny weather, not too hot.
We're in Derbyshire - drystone walls from horizon to horizon.
What can I complain about today? Well, nothing really I'm afraid. I will have to think about something to complain about tomorrow.
Perhaps it will be about Vodafone's lack of mobile 'phone coverage in this part of the world! In which case you won't hear from me ......unless I shout extremely loudly.

Day 24

A very straightforward 18 miles to Ashbourne much of it following the Staffordshire Way. A cold wind for much of the day, however.
Thanks to Richard M (whoever you are) I've now found the brackets [on my Nokia E71] including {as you can see} square ones and squiggly ones. Thank you Richard M.
But to change the subject (as one does] I realised today that one of the first things I do when I get to my room in the b&b is to eye up where I can dry the clothes I am about to wash. Such is life on the road....
Many (at least 3) people have asked about my feet (and, I assume, Andrew's feet as well). I will compile a report for viewing some time next week.
Tomorrow is a rest day - and no blog.

Day 23

We have reached a place called Abbots Bromley and, like last night, we are somewhere in Staffordshire.
A good indication that we are now well on our way to the frozen north is that we saw lots of signs to a Sled Dog Training Centre when we were crossing the tundra known by the local eskimos as Cannock Chase.

Day 22 - One Third Now Done!

Yes - in terms of time - we are now exactly one third of the way through our journey having completed 20 walking days plus 2 rest days. In terms of distance, we've done 355 miles.
Today was an easy day - only 10 miles - to Penkridge which is best described as somewhere in Staffordshire.
Now, on a completely unrelated note, let me tell you these blogs have nearly all been submitted using my Nokia E71 - a 'phone of incredible sophistication but one or two drawbacks - which might explain a few things to readers of this blog. One drawback is the tiny screen and keys - which explains my spelling mistakes. Another is the absence of brackets which I have manged to overcome by throwing commas and dashes into the text instead.

Day 21

We are staying 1.5 miles NW of the centre of Wolverhampton which, in spite of the strong clue given by the somewhat distinctive local accent, is amazing because we have been walking in open countryside nearly all day. We've walked over 23 miles from Bewdley, first alongside the River Severn but the last 10 have been along the Shropshire and Worcester canal. Open countryside - apart from lines of electicity pylons marching across the country in all directions. My feet ache. I suppose this is to be expected after walking 345 miles.

Day 20

We are now in Bewdley after a 16 mile walk from Worcester. Andrew and I both enjoyed yesterday's rest day in Worcester with both our families. As of lunch time today we are back to being on our own.
The walk up the Severn has been very good - shorts and T-shirts weather but, and I apologise now to anybody brave enough to admit coming from Stourport, but the place really is a dump. At least it is on a Bank Holiday Monday. Fields full of parked cars and thousands of people milling around eating ice cream and, it would seem, not actually enjoying themselves. Bewdley seems quite nice though and should be quite quiet by the time we go out to find somewhere to eat.

Day 18

A very enjoyable day's walk, 18 miles from Tewksbury to Worcester along the River Severn.
My nephew, Jon, and Jess his girlfriend walked with us to Upton and told us about their traumatic experiences in the July 2007 floods. At Upton we were met by Janet and our sons Andrew & Steve, and by Kate, their son Nick and John-Henry, Nick's soon-to-be-father-in-law.
Thus there were eight of us for the final march into Worcester.
Tomorrow is a rest day when the rest of our two families will be joining us. There will be 19 of us including 2 babies at lunch tomorrow, bidding us their fond farewells before Andrew and and I set off towards the deepest Midlands and frozen north on Monday.

Day 17

An easy day today. Gloucester to Tewksbury following the Severn Way. Just over 14 miles including a short diversion to watch the Severn Bore.
The Severn Bore occurs on about 4 days every month and I had found out from researching the internet that a Bore would, by happy coincidence, be happening round about the time we would be leaving Gloucester.
It was only a small bore - more like a yawn - but well worth seeing. The wave was probably about two feet high but what was particularly impressive was the speed and volume sweeping upstream behind the mainwave.
Watched Reading vs Sheffield Utd on TV and wished I hadn't.

Day 16

From Wotton Under Edge to Gloucester - 20.5 miles. We had expected this to be about 24 miles but managed to shorten it by cutting out some of the more rambling bits of the Cotswold Way. It did, however, mean that the final section into Gloucester from the south was very tedious - about 5 miles walking beside a busy main road.

Generally we try to avoid main roads, prefering instead to walk on minor roads or footpaths. Sometimes the footpaths are hard to find or peter out. This afternoon we were crossing a field on a footpath marked on our OS map but the footpath clearly hadn't been used in a while. We found ourselves in the corner of a field with no way out other than to climb under a barbed wire fence and then crawl on hands and knees for about 10 metres through a hawthorne copse dragging our rucksacks behind us. I can still feel the after effects of the stinging nettles.

We have now walked 273 miles since leaving Lands End.

Day 15

A short day today, only 15 miles, to Wotton Under Edge. But tomorrow is a long one all the way to Gloucester.
We've met some nice people today including a very nice attractive blonde young lady in her early 30's in the pub at lunch time who offered to do our washing and deliver it to the b&b!
We also met some real walkers for the first time - two young lads from Leeds walking the Cotswold Way,doing about 25 miles a day, camping and staying in youth hostels. I hope they don't read what I said about youth hostellers the other day.

Day 14

We've covered just under 17 miles today and have reached Doynton about 6 miles NW of Bath. We've walked 238 miles since LE and can see the M4 to the north so it feels like we are making real progress.

Day 13

Walked just over 20 miles today from Street to Farrington Gurney. A hard walk towards the finish coming on top of yesterday's 27 miles.
It's nice to be back in a b&b. I don't think Andrew and I are youth hostel people. There's nothing wrong with youth hostel people but cooking one's own baked beans for dinner and again for breakfast, then doing the washing up, making your own bed, sleeping on said uncomfortable bed in a room with no curtains, the bathroom on the floor below accessed by stairs that creak and paper thin walls and paying more than in some b&b's for these dubious priviledges is not for us.

Day 12

Yesterday was a rest day at Andrew's brother's house and a very relaxing day it was too in preparation for today's literally marathon walk to Street.
We set off from Paul and Sandy's house at 07.40 and arrived at the YHA just south of Street at 17.50 having walked 27 miles.
Our hardest day.
We now reckon we have walked exactly 200 miles since leaving Lands End.

Dave and Andrew at Land's End

Well, it's hardly topical, but today was the first opportunity to get this photo onto the blog. In fairness to Janet who took the photo, before you blame her for missing the arms of the Land's End signpost, I should point out that they were missing. It was just a post. Rather disappointing. But at least we had good weather - it could have been raining as well as bitterly cold and blowing a gale. You'd never think it from the photo though, would you? We were freezing!

Day 10

It's Friday! More importantly, we have just completed the first leg of our 1036 mile journey by arriving at Andrew's brother's house at Hillfarrance 4 miles west of Taunton. We've walked 14.7 miles today.

Andrew is good company but it's nice to meet up with Paul (Andrew's brother), his wife Sandy, Kate (Andrew's wife), and an old friend of both of us, Peter, who used to live in Wargrave many years ago.

And tomorrow is a rest day!

Kate asked what we talk about when we walk. I say it has often been initially culture, religion and politics.

Day 9

We are staying 5 miles east of Tiverton. A hard day - almost 20 miles - but a very good B&B.
I don't normally watch BBC Breakfast TV but one tends to watch it at a B&B. It's rubbish. Why on earth is the weather forecast presented by a man standing in a garden? Am I alone in hoping for a cloudburst when he's there? It turns out to be the Blue Peter garden. I remember back to the days of Val Singleton and Christopher Trace at Blue Peter when the BBC treated it's child audiences with more respect than it treats its adult audiences today.

Day 8

At Crediton. 19 miles today in perfect weather. In a pub about to enjoy, hopefully, a 7-pounds-including-a-drink meal while watching England under perform against Ukraine.

Day 7

Okehampton after walking 21 miles from Launceston..
By now I am into a routine when we reach our B&B. First' and most important, a cup of tea, preferably two. Then I do email and write up my log for the day, followed by a shower. After that comes the washing of some clothes, the blog, some reading if time permits, then out for a meal. No late nights though - not on this trip.

Day 6

A relatively easy day - only 13 miles. We were on Bodmin Moor again in the first part of the day. It was nice.

In the centre of Launceston a school crossing lollipop lady volunteered to help Andrew and me cross the busy main road. We accepted her offer gratefully in spite of the fact that nobody could possibly think we were of school age "I love to hold up this traffic" she told us as we crossed. It's nice to meet someone that enjoys their job!

Day 5

Arrived at Bolventor after 16.5 mile walk from Bodmin via parts of the Camelford Trail and Bodmin Moor in lovely spring-like weather. Pleasantly surprised to find a wedding anniversary card waiting for me on arrival.
We are staying at Jamaica Inn which was written by a french lady called Daphne du Maurier.
The cumulative distance covered now stands at 85 miles and we still hve another day to go before we leave Cornwall.
I have been meaning to say in previous blogs that if anyone would like to join Andrew and me on parts of the walk they will be welcome.

Day 4 Saturday

Only 13 miles today - to Bodmin - a relief after yesterday's 20. A very cold wind plus some rain kept us in waterproofs all day.

Day 3 - Friday 27th March

We are in Indian Queens. Strange name.
Today turned out to be quite a hard day. The estimated 18 miles was actually 20.4 and we didn't arrive at the B&B until 6.00 pm:
It's been a showery day and we got a bit damp and cold.
Tomorrow should be a shorter day.
We are about to go out for a Cornish Chinese meal - pasty chow mein I would guess.

Day 2

Sore feet and aching legs but we've completed our second day. Janet has gone home so we are unsupported and carrying everything we need.
We taked about American presidents, Abba!, Apples, Accrington Stanley!! etc. Some sort of theme here........
Andrew talked about aggregates for over 20 minutes. Fascinating stuff.
The pub we had planned as our lunch time stop was closed. We bought some food mid afternoon and ate it sitting on a wall

Day 1 - Wednesday 25th March 2009

This is it! We are underway!
We are now back in Goldsithney having walked 18 miles from Lands End. Weather fine but a bit windy.
Couldn't find our way to the coast path in Penzance because of roadworks. Asked the lady in the tourist office where the start of St. Michael's Way (linking Penzance and Marazion) was. She said, 'It starts in Marazion', and produced a book to prove it. I rephrased my question: Can you tell me where the end of St Michael's Way is?

Advice

I've been given the odd bit of advice - mainly on how to look after my feet. Advice which includes soaking the feet in salt water, soaking them in spirit (No chance! If we get hold of any spirit we'll drink it) and rubbing them in vaseline.

When I was walking to Reading today (last minute training!) I met a man in his late 50's or early 60's with three randomly distributed front teeth who asked me how far I was walking. "Six and a half miles each way" I replied "but next Wednesday I'll be setting off to walk from Lands End to John O'Groats".

"You must be one of the idiots I read about in the Wargrave News" he said. "I've done that walk and it's very good but you don't want to bother with b&b's or camping. You should rough it. A piece of tarpulin is all you need."

"Are you ex services?" he went on to ask. I wondered if I had somehow acquired some military bearing from my two years as a Cub Scout when I was 9 or 10 but I said no I wasn't. "I still think you should rough it. And you can get water in churches" he said as I backed away and continued my way along the A4.

Just in case he reads this blog I have to say he was a very nice man and I will think about the tarpaulin.

7 Days to Go!

It's been a while since the last blog. I've been busy with last minute preparations.

Yesterday I weighed everything I'm planning to take and loaded it all into an Excel Spreadsheet. At the moment the total stands at 7.5 kg excluding any food and water but I suspect this will creep up by another 0.5 kg or so. My plan is that the absolute maximum to carry should be no more than 10.0 kg including water and food.

My new MP3 player is now fully loaded with about 120 hours of music. This should help ward off Andrew's jokes.

Donations to out Justgiving web site are steadily increasing. Please accept our thanks to all who have sponsored us.

This time next week we willl be underway!

Final Preparations

Less than 3 weeks to go.

I've bought everything I need - and a bit more - which means some last minute decisions on what to take when I pack my rucksack.

Andrew and I made page 2 of the Twyford Advertiser today. Including a photo. Fame indeed!

The Route

Date (Miles) Destination

24.03.09 Travel to Lands End
25.03.09 (18) Goldsithney
26.03.09 (18) Truro
27.03.09 (18) Indian Queens
28.03.09 (15) Bodmin
29.03.09 (15) Bolventor
30.03.09 (15) Launceston
31.03.09 (21) Okehampton
01.04.09 (21) Crediton
02.04.09 (19) Tiverton
03.04.09 (15) Taunton
04.04.09 - Taunton
05.04.09 (26) Street
06.04.09 (17) Farringdon Gurney
07.04.09 (18) Doynton
08.04.09 (19) Wootton Under Edge
09.04.09 (24) Gloucester
10.04.09 (16) Tewkesbury
11.04.09 (20) Worcester
12.04.09 - Worcester
13.04.09 (17) Bewdley
14.04.09 (21) Wolverhampton
15.04.09 (13) Penkridge
16.04.09 (15) Abbotts Bromley
17.04.09 (22) Ashbourne
18.04.09 - Ashbourne
19.04.09 (20) Taddington
20.04.09 (18) Edale
21.04.09 (16) Torside
22.04.09 (12) Sunfield Diggle
23.04.09 (16) Widdop
24.04.09 (16) Elslack
25.04.09 (10) Malham
26.04.09 (15) Horton
27.04.09 (14) Hawes
28.04.09 (15) Kirkby Stephen
29.04.09 - Kirkby Stephen
30.04.09 (15) Dufton
01.05.09 (20) Alston
02.05.09 (16) Gilsland
03.05.09 (20) Newcastleton
04.05.09 (20) Hawick
05.05.09 (12) Ettrickbridge
06.05.09 (18) Peebles
07.05.09 - Peebles
08.05.09 (14) West Linton
09.05.09 (16) Broxburn
10.05.09 (16) Falkirk
11.05.09 (20) Kirkintilloch
12.05.09 (18) Drymen
13.05.09 (14) Rowardenan
14.05.09 (20) Crianlarich
15.05.09 (15) Bridge of Orchy
16.05.09 (19) Kinlochleven
17.05.09 (14) Fort William
18.05.09 - Fort William
19.05.09 (22) South Laggan
20.05.09 (19) Invermoriston
21.05.09 (14) Drumnadrochit
22.05.09 (20) Muir of Ord
23.05.09 (14) Evanton
24.05.09 (17) Tain
25.05.09 (19) Golspie
26.05.09 (17) Helmsdale
27.05.09 (15) Dunbeath
28.05.09 (21) Watten
29.05.09 (18) John o’ Groats

Donations

Donation Link
We are doing this journey to raise money for The Prince's Trust. If you would like to donate money please click on this link.
Donation Link

Training

Four weeks to go. Training is a priority, especially getting the body used to exercising every day. Ran 6 miles yeterday morning and walked 10 miles in the afternoon.
Walked from Bourne End to Wargrave today (12.5 miles) mostly following the River Thames.
Very tired at the end of it!

Walking End to End

There's six weeks to go before Andrew and I begin our 1036 mile walk from one corner of Britain to another.

The itinerary is decided and accommodation nearly all booked. Boots have been bought and worn in. What remains is a lot of detailed planning concerning what to take.

A page has been set up for charity donations at http://www.justgiving.com/walkingendtoend